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These are the assembly instructions for the MaybeCube. These instructions are not fully comprehensive, that is they do
not show every small detail of the construction and in particular they do not show the wiring. However there is
sufficient detail that someone with a good understanding of 3D printers can build the MaybeCube.
Read this before you order parts
Extrusion: 2020, 2040 etc aluminium comes in variants with differing sized center holes - some are suitable for tapping for an
an M5 bolt and some are suitable for tapping for an M6 bolt. It doesn't really matter which you use, but ensure you
buy the bolts that correspond to your extrusion size. These build instructions assume M5 bolts, if your extrusion
requires M6 bolts then the 10mm and 12mm buttonhead M5 bolts should be replaced with M6 bolts.
Z-motor and leadscrew: The motor for the Z-axis has an integrated lead screw: in the Parts List the length specified is the length that
protrudes from the motor. Some suppliers specify the total length of the lead screw, that is including the part that
is inside the motor, so check how your supplier specifies the part before ordering. Another option is to order a motor
with a lead screw that is too long and cut to size, note however that lead screws are made from hardened steel and cannot
be cut with a hacksaw - an angle grinder is required to cut them.
Build plate: For the MC350 variant I have specified a Voron Trident build plate (this is an 250x250mm aluminium tooling plate drilled for a
3-point fixing) and a silicone heating pad.
A cheapr alternative would be an Ender-style 235x235mm print bed with 4 fixing bolts.
Sliding T-nuts and hammer nuts: Sliding T-nuts and hammer nuts are somewhat interchangeable. I find T-nuts easier to use: sometimes it can be
to get a hammer nut to "bite". Hammer nuts allow more flexibility: they can always be added or removed without disassembling the frame. Genenerally
hammer nuts can be replaced with sliding T-nuts, as long as it is done early enough in the assembly. Sliding T-nuts can always be replaced with hammer
nuts.
Washers/shims: Standard M4 washers are 1mm thick. Where "M4 x 9mm x 0.5mm" washers are specified, these may be ordered as "M4 shims".
Side and back panels, base, and base cover: These are specified as "CNC routed parts" in the parts list, for the convenience of those with access to a CNC.
CNC routing is not required, the only "machining" required is to drill holes for attachment to the frame, which can easily be done with a hand drill.
This is a full build, some parts can be omitted to save cost, in particular:
the Big Tree Tech relay module, if you don't want auto shut off
I've specified a Big Tree Tech mainboard, you of course can use any mainboard you like
the polycarbonate side and back panels, if you don't want to enclose your print volume for (say) printing ABS. Note
that these panels also add rigidity to the printer.
Printing the parts
A number of parts are in proximity with heat sources, namely the hotend, the heated bed and the motors. Ideally these
should be printed in ABS, but I have used PETG successfully.
The STL files for the parts are in the recommended orientation for printing.
Parts are designed so that vertical features are aligned on a 0.5mm grid, so parts should be printed with either a 0.25mm or a 0.5mm layer height.
For speed of printing most parts can be printed with a 0.6mm nozzle with a 1.0mm layer width and a 0.5mm layer height. Some parts, however, require a finer
resolution and should be printed with a 0.25mm layer height namely:
*All parts of the X_Carriages (ie anything prefixed X_Carriage_)
*All parts of the Y_Carriages (ie anything prefixed Y_Carriage_)
*The XY_Motor_Mount_Pulley_Spacers
*The Smart_Orbiter_V3_Duct and the Smart_Orbiter_V3_Fan_Bracket
Insert the belts into the X_Carriage_Belt_Tensioners and then bolt the tensioners into the
X_Carriage_Beltside part as shown. Note the belts are not shown in this diagram.
Bolt the idler pulleys, shims, and spacer XY_Motor_Mount_Right as shown.
Tighten the shoulder bolts until the pulleys no longer turn freely, and then loosen the bolts by about 1/4 turn until the pulleys
turn freely again.
Bolt the motor and the cork damper to the motor mount. The cork damper thermally insulates the motor from the mount
and should not be omitted.
Align the drive pulley with the idler pulleys and bolt it to the motor shaft.
Add the bolts and t-nuts in preparation for later attachment to the frame.
Bolt the idler pulleys, shims, and spacers XY_Motor_Mount_Left as shown.
Tighten the shoulder bolts until the pulleys no longer turn freely, and then loosen the bolts by about 1/4 turn until the pulleys
turn freely again.
Bolt the motor and the cork damper to the motor mount. The cork damper thermally insulates the motor from the mount
and should not be omitted.
Align the drive pulley with the idler pulleys and bolt it to the motor shaft.
Add the bolts and t-nuts in preparation for later attachment to the frame.
Bolt the pulley stack into the XY_Idler_Right. Note that there are 4 washers between the two pulleys and one
washer at the top and the bottom of the pulley stack.
Tighten the bolt until the pulleys no longer turn freely, and then loosen the bolt by about 1/4 turn to allow the pulleys
to turn freely again.
Add the bolts and t-nuts in preparation for later attachment to the frame.
Bolt the pulley stack into the XY_Idler_Left. Note that there are 4 washers between the two pulleys and one
washer at the top and the bottom of the pulley stack.
Tighten the bolt until the pulleys no longer turn freely, and then loosen the bolt by about 1/4 turn to allow the pulleys
to turn freely again.
Add the bolts and t-nuts in preparation for later attachment to the frame.
Insert the threaded inserts into the Y_Carriage_Right as shown.
Drive a long M3 bolt through the Y carriage from the insert side to self tap the part of the hole after the insert.
Once this hole is tapped, remove the bolt.
Bolt the Y_Carriage_Brace_Right and the pulleys to the Y_Carriage_Right as shown. Note the position of the washers.
Tighten the bolts until the pulleys no longer turn freely and then loosen by about 1/4 turn so the pulleys can again turn.
Insert the threaded inserts into the Y_Carriage_Left as shown.
Drive a long M3 bolt through the Y carriage from the insert side to self tap the part of the hole after the insert.
Once this hole is tapped, remove the bolt.
Bolt the Y_Carriage_Brace_Left and the pulleys to the Y_Carriage_Left as shown. Note the position of the washers.
Tighten the bolts until the pulleys no longer turn freely and then loosen by about 1/4 turn so the pulleys can again turn.
Bolt the MGN linear rail to the extrusion, using the Rail_Centering_Jig to align the rail. Do not fully tighten the
bolts at this stage - they will be fully tightened when the rail is racked at a later stage.
Bolt the Y_Carriage_Right_assembly to the MGN carriage.
Screw the bolts into ends of the extrusion in preparation for attachment to the rest of the top face.
Note that the last two holes of the rail are not used - the Y_Carriage cannot travel here since the motors are in the way.
Not using these holes shortens the constrained length of rail and so reduces the flex of the Y axes caused by bimetalic expansion
when the frame heats up during printing.
Bolt the MGN linear rail to the extrusion, using the Rail_Centering_Jig to align the rail. Fully tighten the
bolts - the left rail is the fixed rail and the right rail will be aligned to it.
Bolt the Y_Carriage_Left_assembly to the MGN carriage.
Screw the bolts into ends of the extrusion in preparation for attachment to the rest of the top face.
Screw the bolts into the ends of the front and rear extrusions. Note that the top bolts on the front and rear extensions are shorter then the
other bolts, this is so they do not block access to the hidden bolts on the left and right extrusions during assembly.
Insert the t-nuts for the Handle into the extrusions.
Insert the t-nuts for the Top_Corner_Pieces into the extrusions.
Bolt the front and rear extrusions to the side extrusions, leaving the bolts slightly loose.
Bolt the Top_Corner_Pieces to the extrusions leaving the bolts slightly loose.
Turn the top face upside down and place on a flat surface. Ensure it is square and tighten the hidden bolts.
Turn the top face the right way up and tighten the bolts on the Top_Corner_Pieces.
Turn the top face upside down and place on a flat surface.
Bolt the X_Rail_assmebly to MGN Y carriages.
Rack the right side linear rail - Kove the X-rail to one extreme of the frame and tighten the bolts
on that end of the Y-rail. Then move the X-rail to the other extreme and tighten the bolts on that end
of the Y-rail. Finally tighten the remaining bolts on the Y-rail.
Ensure the X-rail moves freely, if it doesn't loosen the bolts you have just tightened and repeat step 3.
Slide the Z_Carriage_Center_assembly to the approximate center of the first 2040 extrusion and loosely tighten
the bolts. The bolts will be fully tightened when the Z_Carriage is aligned.
Slide the 2040 extrusion into the 2020 extrusions and loosely tighten the bolts. The bolts will be fully tightened after
the Z carriages are added.
Attach the SK brackets to the upper extrusion, use the Z_RodMountGuide to align the left bracket.
Tighten the bolts for the left bracket. Leave the bolts to the right bracket loosely tightened for now.
Attach the SK brackets and the Z_Motor_Mount to the lower extrusion, use the Z_RodMountGuide to
align the left bracket and the Z_Motor_MountGuide to align the motor mount. The motor itself will be added at a later
stage of the assembly.
Tighten the bolts for the left bracket and the Z_Motor_Mount. Leave the bolts to the right bracket loosely
tightened for now.
On a flat surface, bolt the upper and lower extrusions into the left and right uprights as shown. Tighten the bolts
continuously ensuring the frame is square.
Stepper motor NEMA17 x 40mm, 300mm integrated leadscrew
1
Stepper motor cable, 850mm
Sub-assemblies
1 x Left_Side_assembly
1 x Printbed_assembly
Assembly instructions
Place the left face on a flat surface.
Attach the print bed to the left face by sliding the linear rods through the Z_Carriages.
Tighten the grub screws on the rod brackets, but don't yet tighten the bolts holding the brackets to the frame.
Slide the print bed to the top of the rods, and tighten the bolts in the top right rod bracket.
(you will have tightened the bolts on the top left bracket in a previous step).
Slide the print bed to the bottom of the rods and tighten the bolts on the bottom right rod bracket
(you will have tightened the bolts on the bottom left bracket in a previous step).
Thread the motor's lead screw through the lead nut on the Z_Carriage_Center and loosely bolt the motor to
the Z_Motor_Mount.
Ensure the Z_Carriage_Center is aligned with the lead screw and tighten the bolts on the Z_Carriage_Center
and the Z_Motor_Mount. The bolt holes on the Z_Motor_Mount are oval to allow some adjustment.
Route the motor wire through the lower extrusion channel and use the E20_ChannelCover_50mms to hold it in place.
If you have access to a CNC, you can machine the base plate using BaseAL.dxf, if not you can use the Panel_Jig
as a template to drill the holes in the base plate.
Insert the bolts into the ends of the E2040 and E2080 extrusions in preparation for connection to the frame uprights.
Bolt the extrusions and the L-shaped feet to the baseplate as shown.
Attach the IEC Housing assembly to the left side extrusion.
Attach the Base_Cover_Front_Support and the Base_Cover_Back_Support to the front and rear extrusions.